Kevyn Aucoin Eye Pigment Primatif in Mistress

When talking about pigment as a makeup product most of us immediately think about the classic MAC pigments (and, yes, I still have a couple. Vanilla and that Blue/Brown thing are iconic). This is why I wasn't too enthusiastic when I spotted Pigment Primatif among the new offering from Kevyn Aucoin. Been there, done that, cleaned the fallout of my cheeks. But doing a little reading on the actual Kevyn Aucoin site has revealed that Primatif is not what I thought. Closer in appearance and nature to a cream eye shadow:

"An elastomeric gel (aka putty) that delivers non-tacky, non-sticky, non-oily and silky feel to the skin."

At first touche this Kevyn Aucoin product has the cushy plump feel of Chanel Illusion d'Ombre, but there's no shiny shimmery particles that get all over the place, and when you actually apply it the "putty" thing starts to make sense. It's extremely elastic, so you can apply it thinly and lightly as I've done above in the swatch: it's a minute amount of product, stretched not even to the max. But the putty is so thin that you can build it up almost to the intensity you see in the jar without caking or clumping.

I've played with Pigment Primatif with various brushes, but the truth is that although they work and work well, the best application method is with one's fingers. To keep things as clean as possible, I'd recommend scooping a tint bit of pigment to the back of your hand with a small brush, and use your finger to collect, apply, and blend to your heart's desire.

Kevyn Aucoin Eye Pigment Primatif comes in four shades right now. I chose Mistress, a complex taupe that blends gray, brown, and mauve. While the putty is oil absorbent and doesn't necessarily require a primer, if your coloring leans warm and you want it to look cooler (and more true to the jar), I do recommend a white primer (as long as it's not of the drying kind). Mistress changes a bit depending on the light, and by varying the amount you use and careful blending, you can get a full gradient eye look with only this one color and no brushes. That's pretty amazing.

Longevity is spectacular. Of course, mileage varies depending on weather, eyelids shape, and oiliness. In any case, this is one of the most fun and unique makeup products I've come across in a very long time.

Bottom Line: a game-changer (more colors, please).

Kevyn Aucoin Eye Pigment Primatif in Mistress ($48) is available at select department stores, such as Neiman and Nordstrom.