Looking at advertisement for L'Aimant, the magnet, we can see that Coty has always promoted it as a sexy and alluring perfume, one that would give the wearer an irresistible hold over the men in her life. Femininity is highlighted and celebrated, at least what passed as femininity back in the day.L'aimant was launched in 1927 after five years of tinkering by Francois Coty and legendary perfumer Vincent Roubert (Iris Gris). It's often compared to Chanel No.5 (1921), and it's easy to smell why. The burst of aldehydes (shockingly fresh even in my older bottles) places L'Aimant firmly in the classic floral-aldehydic category, But not for long.
L'Aimant develops in a way that reminds me more of chypres. An oriental chypre, perhaps, because there's a certain creamy vanilla touch somewhere in the background. But the best way I could describe this Coty classic masterpiece is as love child of Habanita and Mitsouko, that was injected with a touch of No.5 DNA, probably to make it more contemporary and appealing to the 1920s fashionistas.
There's quite a bit going on in L'Aimant. It's a classic floral (the Husband: "smells like vintage"), which we all know used to mean that there's a touch of skank behind the delicate veil. The touch of peach and plum is fleshy and sensual, not fresh, and includes the skin and not just the pulp (it seems like a Vincent Roubert signature). But the lion part of L'Aimant is dedicated to cream and powder, a kind of boudoirish touch that takes porcelain skin, luxurious lotions and potions, the air in that velvet-lined and curtained room, and binds them together with a very light touch of naughty civet for that "come hither" effect (the skank doesn't project at all. It's only there on the most intimate level). The strong powder note ensures a level of respectability in public-- there you are all groomed, coiffed, and powdered to the nines, but there's a secret hiding under the tailored peplum jacket that's waiting to be discovered.
See more L'Aimant reviews by Angela on NST and Barbara on Yesterday's Perfume.
More vintage Coty perfume reviews are here.
The dearest Olenska taught me about Coty. Chypre is queen, but dear lord, how I love L'Aimant. She schooled me on aldehydes.
ReplyDeleteThis is one of my absolute top comfort scents. Am wearing vintage My Sin tonight (extrait form) and after reading your review, went to get some L'Aimant for some free arm space and realized for the first time that although they are definitely different, they share (on my skin at least) a similar rich, warm vibe - I think it must be in the base notes. And you're right - L'Aimant does indeed develop like a chypre. My perfume for tomorrow has been decided. :-) Thanks!
ReplyDeleteAnna
When she couldn't get Paris anymore, my grandmother went to L'Origan. I loved it, but found L'Aimant a little more "special." Remember I'm about 10-14 years old back then, and always tried to wear perfume...but didn't want to smell like "Mimi."
ReplyDeleteOlenska taught me about Cotys as well, and like Carol I have a favorite, good old Emeraude, but, I also love L'Aimant.
ReplyDeleteCurious how so few floral aldehydes get produced these days. I think Ann Gerard's may be among the small number recently out.
The beautiful model in the first ad is Ingrid Boulting who was the face of Biba.
ReplyDeleteWhy she never became more famous I do not know !!!
I was a teenager when she was the Biba girl and she was my favourite!
Infact ... she still is :)