Amouage Gold- both Man and Woman- was created in 1983 by Guy Robert as the first perfume for this Oman-based house (founded by the Sultan of Oman, no less). It was obviously meant to make a statement of opulence and royalty. Also, it smells very French: an aldehydic floral with a generous and rich base. If that makes you think of Chanel No. 5 you're not wrong. At least the way Chanel No. 5 used to be.
Amouage Gold Woman has that carefully blended abstract floral core. The husband says it's rosy, but to me Gold is just as much about delicate jasmine and muguet as it is about rose.The fragrance feels ornamental and gilded, yet very balanced. The aldehydes send the first round of fireworks into the stratosphere, and they form elaborate designs in the air and on skin. Gold feel celebratory- there's something about most Amouage perfumes that make them perfect for black tie events- and fit for a queen. As long as the queen is a fan of ambery sandalwood bases that are laced with civet, that is (but who isn't?).
Amouage Gold Woman feels out of time, which also probably means not of this time. I don't know how well Hermes Caleche is doing these days, but a perfume that feels and smells like its haughty and more expensive sibling might be somewhat challenging for a modern perfume shopper. Then again, if you're perfume shopping at Amouage most chances are that you've smelled a thing or two in your life and you're not expecting a L'Eau d'Issey experience. As long as you're ready for an olfactory rococo and have the willingness to go with it, you're golden.
Notes: Frankincense, Rock Rose, Lily of the Valley, Orris, Jasmine, Myrrh, Musk, Cedarwood, and Sandalwood.
Amouage Gold Woman ($285, 50ml EDP) is available from Luckyscent, MiN NY, Osswald, Bergdorf Goodman and select Neiman Marcus locations.
Top photo: Marie Antoinette's bedroom in Versailles.
I love wearing Gold, specially when I'm underdressed (it feels like a little secret). Amouage gives me hope in the future of perfumery, and I'm much happier to spend 300 bucks once an year to get something really luxurious that I will enjoy than pulverizing my perfume money on a bunch of meh stuff that won't last two hours on my skin.
ReplyDeleteI clasp my Amouages close and feel sad for those whose perfume experience has been defined by L'Eau d'Issey! ~~nozknoz
ReplyDeleteThe vintage Amouage Gold was a real beauty, but sadly it has been reformulated and stripped down, just like Caleche. No real frankincense left in it, and now it just smells like expensive soap to me. I wish I had bought a bigger bottle years ago.
ReplyDeleteI LOVE Gold! I didn't think I would...but it really is like old-time No 5, only..better? I love the body creme, too. In fact, 'twas the cream and soap that was my back-in gateway to the edp.
ReplyDeleteGreat description of a lovely scent!!!
xoxoA
regarding Tara c review, Incorrect the frankincense is 1000percent authentic. the composition of EDP remains same 20%percent concentration and extrait 40%.
ReplyDeleteOnlyAmouage perfume formulations that have ever taken change are 4 attars by amouage, due to IFRA are: Tribute, Homage, and 2 other attar oils. However perfumes have not. I am 100 percent sure of this.
As of last month It is official that even these 4 attars will go back to their former glory and not go by IFRA standandars. The reprocutions is Amouage attars will no longer be sold outside of Gulf Countries and not be distributed overseas.
Amouage standards are higher then most. These perfumes and attars are gifted and bought the the most elite. For this reason and pride in the family owned company it will not ever bow down to common. True quality.
The frankincense in Oman is the best in the world and the farms are owned by the exclusive family who owns Amouage. So by no way is the post about reformulation possible. Only thing that comes to mind is the person bought a knock off and to avoid buying from that source in the future.
Pick the extrait.
ReplyDeleteGold woman extrait is Calèche resurrected. Or no5. Or Joy. Fill in any great classic with tons of the best roses and jasmine.
And -dare I say?- even better.
The EDP is a bit of a lackluster rendition. It sticks to its name, "gold" : more metallic, more formal, less transcendental, and a bit flat compared to the extrait.
For 80$ extra or something, you get a generous bottle of 50ml extrait. It's a tip. If the place you get amouage perfume has it, try and take it.
There is the woomph, the rollercoaster, the red velvet seat at the opera, the cathedral-scale incense.
I've got many bottle of it
- a very old bottle : this one is full on biblical animalic notes in the top notes. It's all blended, but you get the veil of roundness of civet before the roses, the inky caress of deer musk before the jasmine inkiness, and even a hint of the spicy (and manure-like) of ambergris before the real amber.
It's more of a time travel than a real perfume to wear. I haven't tried it much because it last a lot. And it conveys more of an ambiance of luxury good, subliminaly so, than a real message like a common perfume does.
- old edt probe : a bit of the same, but diluted. It's a bit of a jake of all trade, and a bit wishy washy. You lack the subliminal of the first edition, so you fall into the category "nice animalic amber and flower of baby diaper?".
- actual EDP : decent. It lacks the woomph. It could be a masculine. It has unalloyed quality.
- extrait : go for it!