This started as a joke: The husband suggested that in honor of the Super Bowl I should write about smoky perfumes. In case you wondered, I have zero interest in football (except for a personal grudge against the Jets), and even less than that in tailgate parties and celebratory barbecue. But smoky notes in fragrance are a completely different matter. Smoke in scent is related to tobacco notes, incense, oud, and vetiver; I didn't want to fully cross into these categories, which all deserve their own Top Ten lists, but it's pretty hard to completely avoid it. I concentrated on fragrances that are distinctively smoky and some honorable mentions. In no particular order:
- Tauer Perfumes- Lonestar Memories. Lapsang Souchong in the burning prairie with a side of mint.
- Serge Lutens- Fumerie Turque. Taking a walk on a cool fall day when your neighbors just lit their fireplace for the first time in the season.
- Alan Cumming/CB I Hate Perfume- Second Cumming (and its predecessor, Cumming). Scotch, smoke, and a wicked sense of humor.
- Vero Profumo- Onda (extrait). From the fiery vetiver and animalic leather department. Incredibly complex and elegant.
- Le Labo- Patchouli 24. A sweeter variation of the idea presented in Lonestar Memories.
- Annick Goutal- Eau de Fier. Smoky orange juice.
- Nasomatto- Black Afgano. Thick, sweet, and rather polarizing.
- D.S. & Durga- Burning Barbershop. Lavender burnt to a crisp, the smoke carried into an urban night sky.
- Parfumerie Generale- 02 Coze. A beautiful smoky gourmand that I absolutely can't wear but really really want to.
- Comme de Garcons- Zagorsk (Incense Series). I'm cheating a little, because Zagorsk is technically an incense fragrance, but the smoke is such a dominant aspect of it, that takes over the churches, iris and pine trees in the chilly Russian air.
Honorable Mention: CB I Hate Perfume- Burning Leaves (conceptual and evocative), Sonoma Scent Studio- Fireside/Fireside Intense (a very realistic campfire), Profumum Roma- Fumidus (a more intense take on the idea of Cumming. I'm not sure it's wearable, but it's interesting).
Gaia, I would like to request a Top Ten Gourmand selection, please! I'm really enjoying your Top Ten series. I appreciate your excellent taste, your writing style and your sense of humor. And anyone who loves cats as much as I do, let's face it, can do no wrong.
ReplyDeleteWhat about Tom Ford's Tuscan Leather? Would that be considered a smoky perfume? Smoke + leather are the main notes.
ReplyDelete+ I second the request for a Top Ten Gourmand selection!
I really like your top ten smoky perfumes, especially because I found my favorites on this list, but I'd add something extra - Black Tourmaline by Olivier Durbano.
ReplyDeleteI think the only one on the list that I've tried is Black Afghano. I like it, but that stuff has the longevity of uranium! The last time I tried it I could still smell it on my skin 24 hours later and after a shower.
ReplyDeleteI also layers nicely with China White (my favorite Nasomatto).
I am slso really enjoying your Top 10 lists! Fumerie Turque is on my list of favorite smokeys too and I would add Cartier La Treizieme Heure XIII.
ReplyDeleteHave you tired the CDG Black fragrance? I tried it recently and it makes my eyes roll its so magnificent. Dark. Smoky. Black. Leather, tabacco, licorice. Love!!! Only thing is I can't wear it around my husband or friends because I'd just smell like an ashtray. Boo hoo. I'd love to see a licence scent list from you!!
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