I give up. There's no limit to the number of great and highly desirable amber perfumes. I love them, I wear them, and I want them all. Case in point: Ambre Mirabilis from the newly launched Keiko Mecheri Bespoke collection. I did roll my eyes a little when the concept was introduced. A bespoke perfume is something a bit different. But I smelled, tested, and retested several of Keiko Mecheri's Bespoke fragrances, and I sort of get it. Let's think of it as an even more personal, a "director's cut" series of olfactory fantasies. It makes more sense in this contest.
Ambre Mirabilis is an oriental perfume, sort of an Arabian Nights themed, sensual, spicy and just a little (very little) dirty. Perumer Keiko Mecheri combined the inside pleasure of the harem with the intoxicating aspects of the bazaar outside. The result is reminiscent of a 19th century orientalist art more than the true-to-life snapshot of Uncle Serge's Arabie. Regular readers may remember that as far as I'm concerned, Arabie is so realistic that I can't wear it and keep my food down at the same time; so Keiko Mecheri's way is very welcome in this case.
The first thing I smell in Ambre Mirabilis is a soft and slightly sweeten spice market. More coriander than cumin, maybe a hint of saffron or a nutmeggy touch. It's a soft and welcoming spicy accord, nothing aggressive or harsh there. There's opulence of rose-scented sweets, fruit preserved in spice and sugar, but it's all happening behind a light smoky screen, blurring and distorting the notes just a little. There's a mystery there: dim lights, silk screens, last night's burnt incense.
Keiko Mecheri's Ambre Mirabilis is as subtle and delicate as a woody amber fragrance can be. It has a dream quality, you see and smell it through a haze. I usually go for the heavy hitters, but I've fallen for this charming one. My sample (all gone now) was of the dab-on kind; I have a feeling that were I to spray myself liberally, the lasting power (about 5 hours, if I apply enough) would improve.
Notes: ambergris, taif rose, cedar, patchouli, spices and agarwood (oud).
Keiko Mecheri Bespoke- Ambre Mirabilis ($275, 50ml EDP) is available from MiN NY and Luckyscent. The sample for this review was supplied by MiN.
Art: Arabian Nights by Hans Zatzka, early 20th century.
On my screen, the wonderfully random "You May Also Like" generator pulled pulled up Rihanna in Pajamas, which seems like a good match for a lovely amber, actually! ~~nozknoz
ReplyDeleteThis is just too funny. I wonder what perfume Rihanna did wear with her pajamas :) .
DeleteI love ambers almost as much as you do, Gaia. You've now sent me scenting on this Mecheri "director's cut" (great repurposing of this term). Mecheri is fairly under the radar, and it is nice to see her authoring with greater originality (more or less).
ReplyDeleteSounds like this might be a great summer amber!
Don't you hate it when samples run out?
A samples run out and you need to decide how to proceed. Get another one? Go for a larger decant or live dangerously and splurge for the full bottle...?
DeleteAmbergris is a weird ingredient. But I don't care. I also love almost every perfume that has it as the main mid-note. Love!
ReplyDeleteI'm the same way. If it's an amber I'm so there!
DeleteI bought the Bespoke Discovery Set from MiN when Keiko was there last month. I get 8-10 hours on Ambre Mirabilis when sprayed. It's one of the best ambers that I've sniffed in a long time =)
ReplyDeleteHave you tried Vetiver Velours yet? It's my favorite of the Bespoke fragrances xoxo
I have the Bespoke Discovery Set, and when sprayed Ambre Mirabilis has 8-10 hours of longevity on me =)
ReplyDeleteHave you tried Vetiver Velours yet?? xo