I refuse to call a perfume bottle from 2000 "vintage". No way, no how. Yet, in fragonerd jargon, a perfume in its original formula that has since been altered and tweaked is often labeled "vintage" simply to make it clear that one is talking about the real thing. In any case, this review is based on my old bottle of Givenchy Hot Couture in EDP concentration from the year it was released.
In her review on NST, Jessica identifies Givenchy Hot Couture as a perfume that feels more like a 1980s leftover than a modern perfume looking back on the house of Givenchy and its mid-century elegance. I agree. The opening and much of Hot Couture's development is one shoulder pad away from a big flashy 80s extravaganza. It's a musky fruity perfume with a big warm ambery base, and considering my intense dislike of L'Artisan's Mure et Musc, I was not supposed to enjoy, let alone wear, Givenchy's raspberry mousse cake.
But I do.
There are several moments in Givenchy Hot Couture that catch and keep my attention. The pairing of raspberry and pepper keeps it from going all the way into soft-serve territory and has a little more grownup appeal. It's still sweet and cute and could have gone horribly wrong had Alberto Morillas and Jacques Cavallier chose to go with what later became Givenchy's house rose note (Very Irresistible on all its satanic spawns). The restraint shown in not making Hot Couture a fruity-floral cleared the way to a funky honeyed tobacco core; that's the reason I wear this perfume.
There's nothing subtle about Givenchy's Hot Couture. It also sufferers from a lack of editing: it's a little all over the place with references to the house's 1950s Audrey Hepburn Heritage (without backing it up in the actual juice), the 1980s aggressiveness, the art deco design of the original bottle and the modern gourmand tendencies. It was meant to attract yummy-lovers and be as sexy as a nice girl dares to be. The fragrance is an easy compliment-getter, something to wear (with caution and restraint) on a first or second date, especially if one wants to smell approachable.
Sometimes girls really just want to have fun.
Notes: orange, bergamot, raspberry, magnolia, vetiver, peppercorn, amber, musk, sandalwood.
The current version of Givenchy Hot Couture is available from Sephora, $88, 3.4oz EDT.
Top photo: Charlotte Rampling in a silk organza ruffled dress by Givenchy, photo by David Bailey, Vogue UK, 1972.
Givenchy Hot Couture perfume ad from an online auction.
That image of Charlotte Rampling is magnificent.
ReplyDeleteAnd though in an entirely different, "girls just wanna have fun" is the perfect note for Hot Couture.
you, my darling, are the first woman that I've ever heard mention this beautiful fragrance...and I love you for it. I thought it was my little secret.
ReplyDeleteThanks for posting that wonderful ad. It is one of the best.
ReplyDeleteI loved this perfume when it was released. Half the way through 100ml bottle. And then suddenly it became too much, I never wanted to wear it any more. Now I wonder if I still have that original bottle somewhere... I don't remember.
ReplyDeleteI really enjoyed reading your post on the original hot couture...loved the "shoulder pad" bit - made me laugh! you have a flair for describing perfume that has me seeking out your other perfume reviews.
ReplyDeleteI wore Hot Couture for about four years - all through high school and into my freshman year of college. Ended up giving my last bottle to a girlfriend; that was around the time I discovered the wide world of Uncle Serge, Le Labo, and Thierry Mugler.
ReplyDeleteI miss it, though - I wonder how different it smells now.