It's easy to be a little bitter when it comes to Fendi's recently launched perfume, Fan di Fendi. In early 2009 LMVH (Fendi's owner) did away with what remained of the Fendi perfume line after the most beloved perfumes of the brand, Theorema and Fendi by Fendi have already been axed some years before. It felt like the end of an era despite hints from the corporation that it might only be a temporary hiatus. And, indeed, last year a new perfume under the Fendi name came to be. Fan di Fendi was first launched in Europe last September and is now being introduced to the American luxury consumer.
Fendi is still an interesting brand. They make lovely shoes and the art director is Karl Lagerfeld who also shot the new ad campaign for the fashion line. So why does the perfume ad (above) looks like soft porn (the image I chose for the top of this review is from the Harrods launch and not officially part of the campaign)? And why are the top notes loaded with fruit notes such as pear, blackcurrant and tangerine? I doubt Uncle Karl approves of grown women smelling like fruit punch.
Thankfully, the most dominant part of Fan di Fendi's opening is tangerine and not pear. It's so citrusy sweet, actually, that for a brief moment of happiness I though someone there actually pays homage to Theorema. But that's hardly the case, despite the very yellow feel of this perfume. Fan di Fendi is more floral and not spicy. It's quite pleasant and when I first gave it a full wearing I thought I also got a hint of mimosa, but the more time I spent with it the less so it appears, so I guess it's just a very round, honeyed and sunny jasmine.
The disappointment is in the dry-down. We were promised a soft leather accord which made me hope for Fendi's leather good smell. What I get is a very musky and somewhat wimpy not-quite-but-maybe suede. Fan di Fendi is as mainstream as they come. Nice but forgettable and not quite the big statement declared in the press release:
FENDI re-launches their fragrance house with Fan di Fendi. This amazing new scent is inspired by Rome and encompasses everything that Fendi is known for. From the "Forever Fendi" buckle on the bottle to the luxurious scent, this is a statement fragrance.
Fan di Fendi is friendly, wearable and would probably get that "fresh" label by SAs at the counters as they present it to potential customers who are most likely going to buy it. Because, really, what's the alternative? Whatever by Gucci and So Boring by Valentino?
Top Notes: Pear, blackcurrant accord, tangerine from Calabria and pink peppercorn from Reunion Island
Heart Notes: Damascena rose and yellow jasmine
Base Notes: Soft leather accord and patchouli from Indonesia
Fan di Fendi ($76, 50ml Eau de Parfum. Other sizes and a bunch of body products also available) is exclusive to Saks until September, when it will appear at other department stores. We can take bets how long it's going to take for bottles to start showing up at the discounters. I received a free mini of the EDP as part of a Saks GWP event.
Top image: katiechutzpah.blogspot.com, Fendi porn-like ad from the official press release. And just for fun, here are a couple of photos (by Karl Lagerfeld) from Fendi Fall 2011 campaign, featuring model Anja Rubik (who also appears in the perfume ad) from trendland.net:
If I brought home a sample of this, I feel like I would have to cover up my beloved Fendi by Fendi and Theorema bottles - wouldn't want to offend them or have them turn on me in annoyance. I did have a question, however, that I'm hoping you might be able to answer as my searches about this have so far yielded no results. I love Fendi edp and decided to finally try the parfum version earlier this year. Ordered a quarter ounce bottle for a decent price on ebay. *Loved* it - seemed much more focused on the base notes than the edp. Decided to order another bottle as I have a bad habit of stockpiling vintage scents (my obsession). Anyway, got a larger bottle of the parfum on ebay again and this time was sure I had been duped as it smelled identical to the edp and not like the first bottle of parfum I was so hopelessly besotted with. Blessedly, I didn't leave negative feedback as I thought it was likely an innocent mistake be a seller who didn't specialize in perfumes. So I ordered yet another bottle of parfum - and, yes, it also smelled exactly like the edp. SOOO...I'm left wondering if the first bottle had simply "aged" well (am considering leaving the other two bottles open near a sunny window - which I actually did with excellent results to a less than ancient Narcisse Noir bottle) or if maybe my first bottle is indeed the real thing and I simply had the misfortune of getting two edps poured into parfum bottles. OK, I realize how insane and improbable that sounds - but my love for the first bottle is so enormous, that I can't help but still hope and pray that it does represent the real parfum. How could a fake be that stunning? And how on earth does one replicate a brilliant fake? Deep sigh...and clutching onto tiny shred of hope still. Are you familiar with the parfum and, if so, is it very close to the edp?
ReplyDeleteAlso wanted to say how much I love your perfume reviews and how glad I am that you write about scents from the past - you've steered me to quite a few wonderful purchases of unsniffed vintage scents on ebay.
Ann
Sorry Fendi. I stocked up on the original just in time & will never bother with your plasticky new stuff. Nothing holds a candle to Fendi Fendi mossy suede gorgeousness.
ReplyDeleteEventually, some smart Chinese entrepreneuer will headspace analyze the original & produce a real moss/eugenol/labdanum infused dupe. Ditto Scherrer, Magie Noire, etc.
Can't wait to send yet more of my money overseas, thanks to greedy corporate monopolization here. Fendi, et.al, you are the authors of your own marketing downfall.
I am so disappointed in this new launch from Fendi. I was super excited to see something new from their fragrance house. I have always loved Life Essence from Fendi, even though it was marketed as a men's fragrance (not surprising since I seem to want to marry anything that has cardimom or coriander in it, and I won't even get started on the oakmoss) and I have been using it super sparingly since it was discontinued. I was hoping for something interesting and exciting for their new launch, alas... more of the status quo...
ReplyDeleteWhat a disappointment thank you for reviewing. I wore Fendi since it launched and I do still have a bottle but it's running low and I only use it for when my Husband and I go out on a date because it is the scent that he associates with me. I can't find a scent that even comes close to Fendi and it breaks my heart. Although my daughters do enjoy the fruity/floral combination that is of this decade--I don't want to smell that way, I want leather, spice and warmth. I want Fendi back!
ReplyDelete~Katherine~
You may like Dali by Salvador Dali(nose-mouth)1983. Make sure to buy the silver packaging, since all the off white fragrance boxes are old stock.
ReplyDeleteGood Luck
Jasmin