The truth is that I doubt I'd ever be willing to forsake all other perfumes for one signature scent, even if it's something composed exclusively for me. Still, the idea of a bespoke perfume is deeply appealing. Just imagine the possibilities: a perfumer you admire, carefully choosing notes and raw materials to create your fragrant fantasy...
I'm having a hard time even deciding on a perfumer. Should I go local with Brooklyn-based Christopher Brosius? I'm already emotionally attached to his fig perfume, Revelation, so just imagine the possibilities. And if we're speaking of emotions and connections, the closest I've gotten so far to a signature scent is probably Andy Tauer's L'Air du Desert Marocain, not to mention there's rarely a week going by without me wearing one of Tauer's perfume. Then there are some other dear favorites from American natural perfumer Anya McCoy who creates soul stirring perfumes to Dawn Spencer Hurwitz who amazes me again and again with her art. How can I even choose?
(And I'm not even thinking about international superstars such as Maurice Roucel or Christopher Sheldrake. I know we're fantasizing, but still)
Now, let's think what I'd like in my bottle. There are some notes I consider my signature- smoky amber, fig, vanilla, honey, tagetes, civet and leather. I'm pretty sure you can't put all of them together in one composition. Or can you? Would you? Would I? Doesn't it sound horribly wrong or so delicious it makes me weak in the knees? Can you imagine a leathery Miel de Bois with a side of civet and a fig opening (I can hear you vomit)? Or maybe a tagetes perfume over the incensy Tauerade base?
There you have it- some of my deepest darkest perfume fantasies. What are yours? Who would create them for you? Let's talk about it.
Photo of Barbara Pepper and her vanity from Stirred, Straight Up With A Twist.
I've been thinking about this a lot lately. I know for sure it would have to be Liz Zorn, and it would have to be something rich, smoky and animalic, but with some sort of twist. Her Meerschaum was the perfume that pushed me into major fangirl territory. I have mapped out about 10 different possibilities for bespoke fragrances, and I have even gone so far as to email Liz to ask her about the particulars of her process. The truth is, I just can't afford it right now, but I hope that one day I can.
ReplyDeleteI thought about it... I would like a perfume to be created for me by somebody who would be able to understand my preferences better than I do because I'm still in the beginning of my perfume journey and I wouldn't be able to help much... I'd like it to be a floral scent (green or oriental maybe). And there should be some kind of a complex rose in it. Other than that - I have no idea what I'd like to smell in it.
ReplyDeleteBut even if I had such perfume created for me I doubt I'd wear it too often.
I've also thought about this, and I've come to the conclusion that GreenWitch by Roxana Villa is already the fragrance I'd have wanted made for me if I had a custom fragrance made. I can't think of a thing I'd change about it.
ReplyDeleteI do love the idea though, of a little bottle labelled 'Lydia', made specifically for me. If I do ever win the lottery, I'll be visiting Mandy Aftel or Roxana Villa.
I'm so off of perfumes lately I can't even begin to think about bespoke! What do you do when you don't even know what to wear anymore? Maybe I have perfume fatigue? Maybe a visit to Aedes is in order...
ReplyDelete(love the blog! a total favorite!)
Great topic! I desperately want a baked-bread chypre, and for a moment there I thought Uncle Serge had read my mind, but Jeux de Peau is NOT it. My bespoke perfume would be dry and musky, and the musk would have a yeasty sourdough quality to it, mixed with real oakmoss, of course. There would be a little bergamot and cassie in the topnotes, a bit like Une Fleur de Cassie, which would shift into a tarragon-jasmine-cassie heart, a little like Balenciaga's Fleeting Moment. Cassie has a slightly yeasty quality, which I hope would connect to the bready musk in the base. *sigh*
ReplyDeleteAndy already made it with Une Rose Chypree. I never thought when I got into niche and vintage scents that I'd wear a HG of a perfume again but I have and do. Gone through 2 lil' bottles already, on my third and getting ready to buy another one, the 30 ml this time. It's so perfect it's scary. So is my sillage ( but I love it!) ;)
ReplyDeletexoxo~T
I have no idea who I would want to do my bespoke perfume, but here's the list of favorite categories/ notes I'd give to her or him: chypre, oriental, leather, amber, powder, aldehydes, lily of the valley, violet, civet, almond, heliotrope, lilac, cumin, mimosa, anise, sandalwood, carnation. Oof! Wonder what someone would make of THAT?
ReplyDeleteYou're the only person besides myself who would want to combine fig, leather, and civet! I love all of the notes you've mentioned, and I'm convinced there is a perfume out there for us, or else, we can make it! Luca Turin's Il Profumo site offers to make us our own scent, but the prices are steep. And who knows, by mail, if we'd be happy with the final result.
ReplyDeleteIn my fantasy, we should discuss it over lunch with Jean Claude Ellena....
Hmmmm... Howza-bouta tart redcurranty, Figgy, dank 'n mossy green, leathery, animalic civet-musk, salty sea air brew featuring tomato leaves and patchouli? Oh how my sillage 'twould Way-Slay the rest of the population! ..And thuh Z duzn't wanna be alone .. SO, I've vowed to nevah-EVAH mix my masterpiece. Because I'm a good human. Who doesn't smell nearly as good as she COULD. ;)
ReplyDeleteLove it! You anticipated my reaction to that blend. I laughed out loud, really.
ReplyDeleteCarrie, you gone one big step further than I have. I hope you get your rich animalic Liz Zorn creation.
ReplyDeleteUndina, you make an excellent point: I doubt I'd have the emotional wherewithal to wear a special bespoke perfume regularly, which kind of ruins the experience.
ReplyDeleteL., GreenWitch is so amazing. I have a bottle of the liquid which I count as a prized possession. This week I'm testing the solid.
ReplyDeleteAnd now I'm envisioning a special line that has perfumed named 'Gaia' and 'Lydia'. These bottles should be placed next to each other.
Thanks, Kiki. A visit to Aedes is always a good thing. If you're already at it, also drop by MiN on Crosby street. They have CB I Hate Perfume, which is a good way to refresh one's nose.
ReplyDeleteAimee, a baked-bread chypre sounds so unique. Jeau de PEau has its great moments, but it's definitely not *that*. I'm still trying to figure out how I feel about it.
ReplyDeleteT., I'm so with you about Une Rose Chypree. It's a(nother) soul-stirring, bring-to-your-knees perfume.
ReplyDeletePatty, I'm not sure what one would make of that, but I know I'd want a sample!
ReplyDeleteCynthia, so glad to hear I'm not the only fig fiend around here (is it the only note Patty didn't include in her list above ;)? ).
ReplyDeleteFunny, but JCE is one perfumer I'd never thought would be able to get me.
Zanne, that sounds quite fetching. But then again I'm civet-crazed.
ReplyDeleteA., why am I not surprised ;) ?
ReplyDeleteGaia,
ReplyDeleteThis is such a timely post because I just finished reading The Scent Trail by Celia Lyttelton, in which she has a bespoke perfume created for her. A great read and highly recommended if you haven't read it already. I don't know who I would have create my bespoke perfume if I had the budget!
My ultimate bespoke perfume exists in the original Fendi by Fendi.
ReplyDeleteIt's the perfect blend of spicy chypre with a touch of leather. It's loud, it's dated, and a huge sillage monster, but I adore it and I identify with it completely. Just in case I'm headed to that desert island, I've got a few backup bottles.....
Barbara, the book has been on my to-read list for a while now. I probably should get on with it.
ReplyDeleteElizabeth, I'm glad you have enough backup bottles of Fendi. I definitely cherish mine.
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