One of the most unfortunate directions popular perfumery has taken is stirring far far away from real green scents. Somehow bitter galbanum and hyacinth with their jonquil companion don't seem to entice the average perfume buyer. It's a real mystery to me- why are fake citrus and stomach-turning melon and aquatic notes considered "fresh and clean" while the real thing has been mostly abandoned except by those of us hoarding backup bottles of vintage Chamade, Chanel 19, Fidji and Vent Vert?
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes is one of us. She created Vert pour Madame, a take-no-prisoner classic green chypre on all its leafy glory. Vert pour Madame has it all- the flowers and roots, an uplifting opening, a crisp elegance that walks on haute couture heels, and as Donna on Perfume Smellin' Things said: timelessness.
I'm especially seduced by the opposites that rule this DSH creation: bitter herbs and sweet tonka, fresh spring flowers and bold animalic notes (oh, the civet!), airy aldehydes and grounding patchouli. It's all there as Vert pour Madame caresses the body and works with it the way only real perfumes can do: it's silk, chiffon and skin. Why did this style fall out of favor? Is it the bitterness and dirty animalics that pushed away the modern consumer? Is it the strange quality of a strong orris note that makes many feel these scents are too perfumy and dated? Obviously, my vintage loving self can't answer it, as these are exactly the fragrances that thrill me, break my heart and make it soar at their eternal beauty. I will not wear fresh body sprays and anti-perfumes just as I wouldn't be caught dead in Crocs or Snooki-wear, so I'm not really equipped to answer these questions.
All I can tell you is that Vert pour Madame by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz is poetry and high fashion in a bottle. It goes with my little collection of vintage jewelry and scarves and makes me feel more confident and true to myself.
Top notes: Aldehyde, Bergamot, Cassis Bud, Galbanum, Hyacinth, White Peach
Middle notes: Jonquil, Moroccan Rose Absolute, Muguet (Lily of the Valley), Neroli, Orris, Sambac Jasmine, Violet Leaf Absolute, Ylang-Ylang
Base notes: Atlas Cedarwood, Australian Sandalwood, Ciste Absolute, Civet, East Indian Patchouli, Moss, Musk, Tonka Bean, Virginia Cedar
Vert pour Madame by DSH Perfumes is available in Eau de Parfum ($23-100) or Parfum ($70-198). Bottles and samples can be purchased on dshperfumes.com. My sample was sent directly from the perfumer.
Photograph from Vogue, 1948.
I adore Vert Pour Madame, I just got my sample last week. It's so stunning and true to the style, and I'm so happy Dawn decided to create it. Something like this was long overdue!
ReplyDeleteThere's the original Private Collection, a mean green oasis in the desert of neutered galbanum. It's superior to what No. 19 and Vent Vert have now unfortunately become.
ReplyDeleteTo put it simply and succinctly, Dawn has created something special and Vert Pour Madame has stolen my heart.
ReplyDeleteI am still crying about the way they messed with Chanel 19 and Givenchy III so maybe this will cheer me up!
ReplyDeleteI just received a sample of this, and just like you, I, too, have been bemoaning the dearth - or death - of true green chypres. Vert Pour Madame nearly made me cry, it was everything I could have hoped for and so much more! We're luckier than we know to have her - and luckier still that she really is...one of us!
ReplyDeleteI love green scents. This one sounds beautiful. Thanks for the wonderful review.
ReplyDeleteCould you compare this to the original Vent Vert?
ReplyDeleteGaia,
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for your words of praise for VpM... I am humbled by their beauty and grace.
~Dawn
ps: I really *am* one of the tribe; I LOVE this genre. :)
Carrie, I fully agree. I'm thrilled that it's still even possible to create such beauty considering the issues with obtaining raw ingredients.
ReplyDeleteDain, yes, Private Collection is still a gem.
ReplyDeleteI'm so sad about what they've done to No. 19, not to mention the destruction of Vent Vert.
RD, I'm so glad to see Dawn's work gets acknowledged.
ReplyDeleteKristina, Vert pour Madame will definitely cheer you up. It's everything a green perfume should be.
ReplyDeleteTarleisio, VpM is definitely a scent that causes an emotional reaction. It has a soul.
ReplyDeletedleep, I hope you get to try and enjoy it.
ReplyDeleteRoseanne, it's a bit tricky to compare because the vintage Vent Vert has aged- I have it in a couple of concentrations and also as samples from different sources, and each is a bit different, probably due to age. I will review all three Vent Vert incarnations in the very near future and will try to incorporate some sort of comparison. All I can say at this point is that I doubt any Vent Vert lovers would be disappointed with Dawn's creation. It truly is amazing.
ReplyDeleteDawn, the pleasure is all mine. Your work is a delight to real perfume lovers and I'm honored to be part of your tribe :) .
ReplyDelete