When perfumer Francis Kurkdjian launched his own brand in 2009 it was clear the man knew what he was doing. The perfumes were well-composed, accessible and friendly. They were a great fit for most upscale boutiques and department stores where shoppers were interested in a prestigious name, good quality and chic but wearable fragrances. I liked a couple of them, though not enough for a full bottle, but was mostly bored. I guess I'm just not that into accessible and friendly.
The recently released Absolue Pour Le Soir, an intense interpretation of Kurkdjian's Cologne Pour Le Soir, is of a different caliber. Cologne is cuddly and polite but neutered. Absolue is animalic, and that probably would sum it up for many. It's not the cumin note that would separate lovers from haters. I find the cumin used by Kurkdjian to be at a very tolerable level and even the husband has yet to complain (he thinks Absolue is not particularly strong. All I say to that is: Seriously!?!?).
Absolue Pour Le Soir is mostly honey- honeyed rose, honeyed incense and honeyed kitten. I'd venture a guess that people who find Onda, Ferme tes Yeux, CB Musk, Miel de Bois and MKK despicably vile would also consider Francis Kurkdjian's Absolue too much like a dirty barnyard. If, however, you belong to the group who wears these scents for their fuzzy touch and sweet warmth, APlS is probably right up your alley. It's gorgeous in that real perfume way where cumin is just a spice that brings out other qualities in a scent and keeps it from going all treacle on one's skin. I tested it by spraying as well as dabbing and I definitely prefer to spritz- the skank develops more fully this way. Just use with caution.
Absolue Pour Le Soir ($175, 2.4oz) is available at most Maison Francis Kurkdjian authorized retailers from Bergdorf Goodman to Luckyscent. Aedes should be getting it soon and there's also the perfumer's Paris boutique (5 rue d'Alger).
Image: myvintagevogue.com
Hello, Gaia-
ReplyDeleteThis sounds like a Very Interesting Scent.
Do you have any ideas where I might buy a decant? A whole bottle would be out of the question until February.
Nice Vintage Vogue illustration.
Lawrence in Ohio
Lawrence, drop me an email :)
ReplyDeletei love this one. i'm in the cuddly kitten group when it comes to things like this and MKK. be sure to try this on paper - it's even MORE obviously sexy there than on skin.
ReplyDeletemy very first exposure to it was on paper, and the first word that popped out of my mouth was "sex" as in bodies getting warm and sticky together. but that's not how it is on skin, where i find it much more cozy and warm and less about blatant sex. great stuff. my next purchase, actually.
cheers,
minette
Hello, Gaia
ReplyDeleteI got this one as soon as it came out. I liked the cologne version, but the powdery aspect of it bothered me. Excellent review! I will say you should give his line another try. I bought this one in Vegas last weekend, Lumiere Noire Pour Homme after an hour wearing it, I got complimented on it.
Cheers!
I haven't tried anything by MFK before this Absolue pour le Soir and I must say I was very impressed with it. I don't mind the skank aspect, I don't find it overdone - it's just right. And you are completely right, cumin doesn't seem to play such a big role here, something else gives off that skanky feel in this for me.
ReplyDeleteThanks for discussing this. I'm so curious about the MFK stuff. I sampled one thing: APOM, and found it both sterile and beautiful. Very long lasting...safe but some other quality too. It's that other ness that I'm curious about.
ReplyDeleteCheryl
Hi Gaia
ReplyDeleteNice review. I absolutely love all Kurkdjian's perfumes. I just bought a full bottle of Absolue Pour le Matin. Aqua universlis and Cologne Pour le Soir are absolutely great. He is one f my favorite "noses". And he looks good. ;))
Greetings,
Sandy