I tend to think of high quality floral perfumes, especially the ones containing iris-hyacinth-orange blossom, as very French. It's that classic perfumy vibe that says well-dressed and very pretty. The thing is, Hermès 24 Faubourg isn't really Dovima in Dior or a 1970s heroine of a melancholy French film that is not about to end well. 24 Faubourg is spring at Luxembourg Gardens, a picnic for two and an exuberant laughter on a balmy night.
It's Hermes, true, but 24 Faubourg never feels haughty. The perfumer behind it is Maurice Roucel who is master of the sensual, tactile and sweet (Musc Ravageur, Dans tes Bras, New Haarlem, Insolence, Le Labo Labdanum and many others). 24 Faubourg is all warmth and femininity, the silk lining of an exquisite coat and the space between the white blouse and the collarbones.
I wear the EDP (not a fan of the EDT, at least in its current formulation) and enjoy every minute of it. It's happy without goofiness and sweet without a trace of being foody or juvenile. The flowers are mostly white ones- lots of sweet orange blossom and jasmine, and the base is a smooth amber. 24 Faubourg is not really cuddly but radiating warmth. There's a chypre feeling there, but it's about patchouli and not oakmoss, so the impression is more modern (it is a 1995 creation and not a 1960s one), while still maintaining a classic posture. And, yes, it's very French and very Hermes.
This review is for the eau de parfum version of 24 Faubourg ($165, 3.3oz) on hermes.com
Photo: Catherine Deneuve for Vogue UK by David Bailey, 1966
Great photo! I've wondered what the deal was with those elaborate updos of the mid-Sixties -- any guesses?
ReplyDeleteI guess I'll be stocking up on my Hermes scents now, as it appears that LVMH is going after them secret-hostile-takeover fashion.
I read your blog daily-I love it! And what evocative writng-the space between the collar bone and the white shirt-perfect!
ReplyDeleteI have an older bottle of EDP which I found for $16. at Winners ( total lucky fluke find). I'll wear it today, in honour of your review.
Sincerely,
Carole
I love 24 Faubourg, but at times have difficulty with orange blossom. I tend to like skank (as in SL's Fleurs d' Oranger) it takes the sweetness off the floral aspect just enough....
ReplyDeleteI'm wearing vintage BelAmi today, it's an Hermes kind of day today.
I always read your blog and was delighted to see this review. I've got a big shelf full of wildly diverse high-end fragrances, collected over 30 years, yet this has been my #1 go-to since I bought my first bottle the month it came out. It's a knowingly sexy grown-up scent. While I can't articulate its qualities as well as you can, I wanted to share its results. I was in our weekly management meeting and another sr vp I worked and lunched with constantly - a sweet, kinda nerdy UWS dad - wound up sitting next to me. Nothing unusual about that. But maybe 10 seconds later he leaned over, his face blushing bright red, and he barely choked out the words "You. Smell. Great." I do like my 24 Faubourg.
ReplyDeleteI love 24!
ReplyDeleteI sprayed it all over my pillow just ti inhale it tonight, your so right about the smooth patch' in the end, warm amber sunbeams...gah! <3
And to Lynnie~ Your story was SO SWEET! Thanks for sharing it. All us perfumistas are always thrilled when we get randoms! ;) I bet that red-faced man loved breathing in your 24, who wouldn't?
~Truly, Tamara
I read your blog every day and especially love the scent reviews. I was looking for something new today - something complex and that no one else would have. I kept you in mind, trying to stay away from the mainstays and designer brands like DKNY, Tom Ford etc. I bought an returned 3 in the course of 3 minutes, the last one being 24 Faubourg. I can't stop smelling myself. I had to come home and see if you reviewed it and you did! It's everything you described and more. I can't tell yu how happy I am and how elegant I feel. Thank you Gaia!!!!!
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