The third Mystery Of Musk day brings us a stunner. Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes created Musk Eau Natural using nothing that was not on the list of musk-like materials suggested by the Natural Perfumers Guild (containing 21 ingredients, 17 of them botanical, the others are the non-cruelty animal based). Limiting the pallet like this could have ended in a crude half-baked product. Instead, she created a polished, well-balanced gem.
DSH was inspired by the era of the most daring and innovative perfumes, the Art Deco period, that gave us some of the Chanel, Coty and Guerlain classics in their original no holds barred incarnation, real animalic materials and strong sensual sillage. Recreating such an atmosphere within the Guild's guideline is one part of the triumph. The other part is how marvelous it smells.
Musk Eau Natural smells like the fuzzy lovechild of Mecca Balsam (an all natural perfume) and Tauer's L'Air du Deset Marocain (a blend of naturals and synthetics). It's the costus and labdanum, smoky resins and oriental touch that creates this impression right from the top notes. The opening is strong and animalic but it treads on soft paws and has no abrasive edges. It feels like you could wear it at the Algonquin round table and it would instantly contribute to your wit and allow you to mingle.
Somwehere along the scent's long wear (it's a parfum concentration and a couple of drops last for the better part of the day) the base gets sweeter and softer. The ambery nectar of patchouli, vanilla, woods and resins creates that warm feeling of a musky skin. The fragrance is incredibly intimate at this stage, inviting and irresistibly sexy.
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz offers Musk Eau Natural as part of her Parfums des Beaux Arts series together with three other new all-natural musks, including a chypre-musk (called ESME or Mystery of Musk Version 4). There's currently a special summer 20% off offer with code July10 (valid until July 21st). I have every intention to make a good use of it.
Elena of Perfume Shrine has reviewed Musk Eau Natural here. I think her giveaway of a full bottle might still be open, so sign up for it if you haven't already. The full list of participants in the project can be found in yesterday's post. Don't forget: Tomorrow night I'm going to post my review and giveaway of Kewdra by Anya's Garden.
Art: Tamara de Lempicka- The Dream, 1927
You know, reading through all of the participants' reviews, I realized I had completely wrong ideas when it comes to musk and was avoiding it for those reasons.
ReplyDeleteThis one sounds great. :)
This new musk by DSH is sounding more and more delicious by the second, a 'well polished gem' for a natural perfume certainly takes a boatload of skill, count me in!
ReplyDeleteGaia Stop it! ;)
ReplyDeleteI can't wait to try it, so many heavy like scents goin around, the weather isn't really cooperating with me wanting to try winter type fragrances even though I long for them just the same. I just love heavy hitters I suppose <3
They make me feel like your painting, I'm lounging around in my bedroom , naked and luxurious ,radiating in my perfume... ;)
Thank you very much for such a memorable review and your choice for artist is phenomenal! The image is absolutely perfect in every way. :) I am so happy that my 'premiere' on the non blonde is so well received, as I have read your blog for quite awhile. What a pleasure to 'be here'!
ReplyDeleteInes, there are many kinds of musk- from the one you find in most laundry detergents to beauties like MKK, Musc Nomade and many (many!) others. They are worth exploring.
ReplyDeleteMonica, the skill and creativity in this DSH creation are amazing. And to get this level of sophistication using such a limited palette is a huge achievement.
ReplyDeleteTamara, I've spent the better part of the last couple of weeks drenched in heavy musks- the one I was testing for this project and several reference musks from my personal collection. Wearing MKK in 100 degrees is an interesting experience.
ReplyDeleteDawn, I'm very happy to see you here and very glad you liked my choice of art. I loved your approach to the theme and the final creation and have every intention now to try others.
ReplyDeleteYes, I too was very struck by the choice of art, very on the money.
ReplyDeleteThe skin -- musk is all about that