Perfume obsession is a funny thing. One day after I bought a bottle of a fragrance so unique it makes my entire collection seem almost silly* and for a few minutes even entertain the concept of a signature scent, I got to try the new L'Artisan Parfumeur Havana Vanille and was reminded why I'm so in love with many perfumes.
Havana Vanille is what I wanted Hermes Vanille Galante to be. It's an almost understated, non-cupcake, well-rounded vanilla scent. Robin on NST has compared it to Guerlain's Spiritueuse Double Vanilla, and she is right. But SDV is too much booze on my skin, and it sadly takes away from the smoky vanilla. Havana Vanille has a beautiful tobacco note, leafy and smooth, which keeps the scent from going the yummy foody way. It's far less sweet than Tom Ford's Tobacco Vanille which I love, but must admit is more honey-tobacco than vanilla and isn't as sophisticated as this L'Artisan creation.
The rum here is mostly in the top notes and then it clears the way to a warm dry vanilla. It's satisfying and comforting without the feel of a guilty pleasure. It's easy to wear without being low brow, and it doesn't smell cheap. One would never be mistaken for wearing a body spray from the mall while having this on.
I can't wear L'Artisan's other vanilla scent, Vanilia, because after the beautiful first 20 minutes I get a weird chemical burnt sugar and a dead orchid note that on a bad day turns my stomach. There's nothing of this sort in Havana Vanille, which makes it an ideal scent for fall.
Havana Vanille will be officially launcehd in October.
*I promise to talk about this perfume soon. In the meantime, you're invited to try and figure out what it is. The first person to guess correctly will receive a sample of the fragrance. If he or she would want it, that is. Just to make this clear: Not Havana Vanille.
Image: Homemade Bourbon Vanilla by ayankeeinasouthernkitchen.com
Havana Vanille is what I wanted Hermes Vanille Galante to be. It's an almost understated, non-cupcake, well-rounded vanilla scent. Robin on NST has compared it to Guerlain's Spiritueuse Double Vanilla, and she is right. But SDV is too much booze on my skin, and it sadly takes away from the smoky vanilla. Havana Vanille has a beautiful tobacco note, leafy and smooth, which keeps the scent from going the yummy foody way. It's far less sweet than Tom Ford's Tobacco Vanille which I love, but must admit is more honey-tobacco than vanilla and isn't as sophisticated as this L'Artisan creation.
The rum here is mostly in the top notes and then it clears the way to a warm dry vanilla. It's satisfying and comforting without the feel of a guilty pleasure. It's easy to wear without being low brow, and it doesn't smell cheap. One would never be mistaken for wearing a body spray from the mall while having this on.
I can't wear L'Artisan's other vanilla scent, Vanilia, because after the beautiful first 20 minutes I get a weird chemical burnt sugar and a dead orchid note that on a bad day turns my stomach. There's nothing of this sort in Havana Vanille, which makes it an ideal scent for fall.
Havana Vanille will be officially launcehd in October.
*I promise to talk about this perfume soon. In the meantime, you're invited to try and figure out what it is. The first person to guess correctly will receive a sample of the fragrance. If he or she would want it, that is. Just to make this clear: Not Havana Vanille.
Image: Homemade Bourbon Vanilla by ayankeeinasouthernkitchen.com
I was sooooooo waiting for this review ! The Real Vanilla is something amazing, but sadly, in perfumes is mostly done as an übersweet artificial cupcake. I'm an addict of Guerlain's DVS, but could live with less cognac as well and therefore I can't wait to sniff the new L'Artisan
ReplyDeleteApropos Vanilla ! In September Jo Malone is coming with her Vanilla & Anis...
ReplyDeleteCan't wait to sniff this one.
ReplyDeleteIs the misterious scent Iris Gris? :]
Vanilla done right can be so good...I don't care for cupcake in my 'fume at all.
ReplyDeleteMysterious scent~could it be Missoni?
I am reporting on this one tomorrow and linking you in the process. I think it will be a bestseller even though I am not sure I personally need it (have the vanillas I need already; or don't I?)
ReplyDeleteThe mystery scent now...hmmm...could it be Fille en Aiguilles ? Sabi? Natori? Any hint?
Thank you for this post! This sounds so promising -- I love vanilla, but not sweet vanilla (nauseating!)... but vanilla with a tobacco note sounds divine!
ReplyDeleteSpeaking of L'Artisan though... do you know whether they have changed the formula for La Chasse des Papillions? I can't smell it any more... opened an old bottle (from 2001-2002) and can still smell the fragrance, even though there is just a drop left, but cannot smell much from the new bottle I bought this year. It is very strange, it feels as if my scent organ has been anesthetized -- I can tell there is a scent there, but am helpless to smell it. (Have you ever had a weird feeling like that?) And I can smell things most people find anosmatic, like L'Antimatiere.
This is first on my "to buy "list.
ReplyDeleteI am CERTAIN I'll not regret it ;-)
Lady Jane, I love vanilla and can't get enough when it's done right, but cupcake perfumes are not my thing. Havana Vanille took me by surprise- it's just so GOOD.
ReplyDeleteI'm definitely going to try the new Jo Malone, but can it be any better than Douce Amere layered with UBV?
Elve, I wish! ;)
ReplyDeleteTheScentMuse, no, it's definitely not Missoni.
ReplyDeleteE., you know me- there can never be enough (good) vanilla. I need a bottle, for sure.
ReplyDeleteI agree- it's going to sell like cupcakes (ha!).
The mystery scent isn't a new release.
Anon, this is very alarming to hear, but I'm no longer surprised to hear about change and reformulations. I haven't sniffed La Chasse recently and the samples I have are at least a couple of years old, so I can't comment from experience, but considering the huge changes in the industry, the soaring prices of quality raw materials and the draconian IFRA restrictions, many houses are reformulating to some degree.
ReplyDeleteDid you try both the regular La Chasse and the Extreme? Do you think both have changed?
Chaya, I'm with you. A bottle will be mine as soon as possible.
ReplyDeleteOh! I know, I know the mystery fragrance . . . !!! ;)
ReplyDeleteAnd yes, I was completely taken aback by your brief flirtation with the idea of a signature scent, though I also completely understood.
But it's good to hear that you snapped back to enjoying the wide range of gorgeousness that's available -- it would be a shame if the fragrance world lost one its most passionate grazers/collectors.
Hm, two wild guesses on your most recent buy: Malle's Une Fleur de Cassie or Aftelier's Tango? Those are high up there on my "most unique" list.
ReplyDeleteNathan, I could never really go with the signature scent concept, not even for this beauty. It made me think "I should always smell like this" because it's so right and perfect. But a girl has many needs ;)
ReplyDeleteI totally fell for the L'Artisan and today I'm wearing Ambre Fetiche and it's making me very happy. So the industry is safe. I'll keep collecting...
Aimee, it's neither, but you're thinking in the right direction.
ReplyDeleteGaia, the Havana Vanille sounds SO good, I can't wait to try it.
ReplyDeleteCould your new perfume love be an Amouage? Perhaps the re-released Ubar? Or have you discovered a must-have from a modern and adventurous line? I am going to guess Roxana Illuminated Perfume- Q or Chaparral, perhaps.
Havana Vanille sounds lovely. SDV is too boozy for me to wear as well, but I am very fond of the scent as it was my introduction to the world of niche scents and perfume blogs. :)
ReplyDeleteAs for your mystery scent, my guess is Profumum Roma Vanitas.
Donna, while I have a soft spot for the Amouage line and adore Roxana and her work (Q is stunning), it's none of them :) .
ReplyDeleteSue, can you believe I haven't sniffed this Profumum scent yet? Must remedy it soon. I have a feeling it's going to be another love.
ReplyDeleteOK, wild guess: Bolt of Lightning?
ReplyDeleteNo, not Bolt of Lightning ;)
ReplyDeleteJust wanted to let you know that L'Artisan Parfumeur has not changed the formula for La Chasse aux Papillons or La Chasse aux Papillons Extreme. Also we really enjoy reading this blog!
ReplyDeleteI've just worked my way through every blog post since this one, and don't know what that almost-but-not-quite signature scent is. Will you reveal it or will you leave us in scented purgatory. Smelling of cepes and tuberose? -Q
ReplyDelete