Chanel No. 5 Eau Premiere

The original Chanel No. 5 on all its concentrations, variations and formulations is so iconic and recognizable I doubt I'd ever bother (or dare) reviewing. It's part of just about everyone's olfactory memory in some way or another, even if one knows nothing about perfume (and cares even less). The classic aldehydic-floral blend has become what many would recognize and label simple as "perfume", even if they can't name it. As a result, almost everyone has an opinion about it. It amused me to no end to hear my 60-something father call it "an old lady scent", but it makes sense if you think about it: for my dad's generation, Chanel No. 5 is the perfume of mothers, aunts and grandmas. Let's face it, these ladies have been old for quite a while.

But we're not here to discuss No. 5, which I keep on hand for reference purpose, but rarely wear. This is about the updated version, Eau Premiere, which was created for the sake of those of us who have a Chanel-lust but suffer an aldehyde aversion. An interesting idea, for sure, and much more civilized than simply butchering a classic in the name of modernity.

No. 5 Eau Premiere is easy on the nose. It has an airy citrus meringue opening (think of a pared-down, non gourmand Shalimar Light), an abstract floral heart which is most like the original No. 5, though I have a hard time telling the flowers apart from each other, while at least in the parfum they are more noticeable, and a muted vanilla and soap base. The drydown might be the weakest link here. It's barely there and not very convincing for someone who prefers a scent with some fangs.

Eau Premiere is easy to wear and easy to like. While it is decidedly recognizable as No. 5, it lacks the challenging parts, though I doubt my father would find it more youthful (he wears Terre d'Hermès these days). It's pleasant, pretty and no matter how much I apply, it never becomes obnoxious (and I've worn it while doing 90 minutes on the elliptical trainer). It feels like a go-to scent, something I'd reach for when I have no clue what else I'd like or when needing something tasteful, appropriate and not oozing with personality. As a result it's also a little boring. Not in a bad way, though. I think of Eau Premiere as the equivalent of a J. Crew cardigan. It's a functional and essential piece in one's wardrobe, but unless you know how to integrate the sweater into an interesting outfit and accessorize it well, you might end up looking just a bit bland.

Chanel No. 5 Eau Premiere is available in those ridiculous 5 oz bottles for $125 from Chanel counters and Chanel.com. However, some online discounters have managed to stock the more tasteful 2.5 oz bottles (did they fall off of a truck on the way to Canada?) and they sell it for around $80. I have a 5 ml mini which is probably over a year's worth, and I have every intention to get more once it reaches critical level.