Since the house of Lanvin is desecrating the memory of its founder, Jeanne Lanvin, by launching a pink fruity floral (blackberry, pear, and raspberryamong other notes) and naming it after her*, I thought it was a good time to remember a discontinued perfume from this house, even if it's one that was created years after Madame Lanvin's death: Via Lanvin.
Via Lanvin was launched in 1971 and discontinued in 1984 (according to Basenotes). The 70s, to me, are the years of Charlie (1973), an assertive green-floral-powder little thing that took over the world. There was a point in that decade that the only way not to have a bottle was to be Amish. That was the reality and the market in which Via had to compete. Like Charlie, Via is also a powdery green floral, but it feels soft and very French. I couldn't find a Lanvin ad for Via (maybe it was the lack of marketing that killed this perfume), but I'm pretty sure it couldn't have been promoted by photos of a woman patting a male co-worker's butt. It's not that kind of scent.
I scored a sealed set of Via EdT and parfum. The first time I opened and tried it, it smelled quite fresh, other than a few seconds of stale aldehydes. I liked the elegant greens and the sweetness that followed. The floral heart feels very classic, which is probably what I recognize as "French": muguet, jasmine, orris and rose seemed to be everywhere. I think I like wearing Via because of the crisp narcissus note. It's green and crunchy in the best possible way, spiced up with some carnation.
My favorite part is the drydown. There's a moment where the vetiver emerges, and it's dry and fiery, almost smokey. It's more pronounced in the EdT, while the parfum is smoother and a bit muted. I wish there was more of this note before it burns into sweet powder. I also wish the lasting power was more impressive. As it is, I need to bathe in the juice to make it live long enough so I can fully enjoy it.
From the 1984 H&R Fragrance Guide, Feminine Notes:
Via Lanvin (1971) - Sweet Floral
Top Note: leafy green, bergamot, aldehyde, violet, lemon - green flowery
Mid note: lily of the valley, jasmine, orris, carnation, rose, ylang-ylang, narcissus - green floral
Base note: vetiver, cedar, sandalwood, musk, amber, moss - woody powdery
* Robin of NST is quoting a CosmeticsNews article, which originally stated that the house's brilliant designer, Alber Elbaz, was deeply involved in the perfume's creation. Allow me to doubt that.
I bought the set on eBay for less than a song. Bottles of both the EdT and the parfum can still be found there on occasion. Some e-tailers who specialize in rare perfumes offer a 0.25 oz of parfum for about $150. I don't think it's worth it, unless this is your long lost holy grail.
Image: http://www.toutenparfum.com/ . My set looks just like the one pictured.
Via Lanvin was launched in 1971 and discontinued in 1984 (according to Basenotes). The 70s, to me, are the years of Charlie (1973), an assertive green-floral-powder little thing that took over the world. There was a point in that decade that the only way not to have a bottle was to be Amish. That was the reality and the market in which Via had to compete. Like Charlie, Via is also a powdery green floral, but it feels soft and very French. I couldn't find a Lanvin ad for Via (maybe it was the lack of marketing that killed this perfume), but I'm pretty sure it couldn't have been promoted by photos of a woman patting a male co-worker's butt. It's not that kind of scent.
I scored a sealed set of Via EdT and parfum. The first time I opened and tried it, it smelled quite fresh, other than a few seconds of stale aldehydes. I liked the elegant greens and the sweetness that followed. The floral heart feels very classic, which is probably what I recognize as "French": muguet, jasmine, orris and rose seemed to be everywhere. I think I like wearing Via because of the crisp narcissus note. It's green and crunchy in the best possible way, spiced up with some carnation.
My favorite part is the drydown. There's a moment where the vetiver emerges, and it's dry and fiery, almost smokey. It's more pronounced in the EdT, while the parfum is smoother and a bit muted. I wish there was more of this note before it burns into sweet powder. I also wish the lasting power was more impressive. As it is, I need to bathe in the juice to make it live long enough so I can fully enjoy it.
From the 1984 H&R Fragrance Guide, Feminine Notes:
Via Lanvin (1971) - Sweet Floral
Top Note: leafy green, bergamot, aldehyde, violet, lemon - green flowery
Mid note: lily of the valley, jasmine, orris, carnation, rose, ylang-ylang, narcissus - green floral
Base note: vetiver, cedar, sandalwood, musk, amber, moss - woody powdery
* Robin of NST is quoting a CosmeticsNews article, which originally stated that the house's brilliant designer, Alber Elbaz, was deeply involved in the perfume's creation. Allow me to doubt that.
I bought the set on eBay for less than a song. Bottles of both the EdT and the parfum can still be found there on occasion. Some e-tailers who specialize in rare perfumes offer a 0.25 oz of parfum for about $150. I don't think it's worth it, unless this is your long lost holy grail.
Image: http://www.toutenparfum.com/ . My set looks just like the one pictured.
You brought back such memories of this fragrance for me - I had totally forgotten this one however this is a fragrance i did enjoy wearing and was saddened by its disappearance .So glad to see this article and do so hope that you enjoy this fragrance as much as I did. sharon
ReplyDeleteI agree with you: Alber Elbaz cannot be that involved in the making of the new Lanvins. It seems to clash with the graceful dignity of his aesthetics. If I ever come across him -- I did, once, in the street, when he was designing for Saint Laurent and he was very friendly and eager to talk about his designs -- I'll certainly convey our feelings about fruity florals. Not that it'll do much good... God, it'll probably hurt his feelings... Sorry Alber!
ReplyDeleteYou totally hooked me so I just bought a bottle on eBay right now -- can't wait to try it out, thanks!
ReplyDeleteSharon- Thanks for your comment. This fragrance is, indeed, a gem.
ReplyDeleteD.- Poor Alber! I'm sure he's not a fan of the pink fruity florals, yet he can't really argue with the suits.
Always In Style- It's great you snagged a bottle. I hope you like it!
This is absolutely still my most favorite fragrance ever purchased. I look for it on eBay and other sites. There is a tiny bottle hoarded by me for special down days in my life - and one whiff can perk me up and put a smile on my face. I certainly desire a 'bring back' of this one!
ReplyDeletePat
I came across a bottle of Via Lanvin in a thrift store recently. It had a broken sprayer, so decanting it was a challenge. But I find that it was worth the time and labor. It strikes an odd but satisfying balance between forest chypre, lactonic floral, and incense drydown. Love it.
ReplyDeleteI own a small collection of parfum mini flasks...
ReplyDeleteGuess which was the first one I received as a gift when a girl? VIA LANVIN. How many times I've caressed this tiny, intelligent designed flask. I fell in love with the mini flasks and parfums. Only today I've found on E-bay press publicity of VIA and then find your blog: Nobody at Maison Lanvin answered my mails asking for inf.
I do miss another "Lost parfum": the former EAU DE GUCCCI ( nine white flowers)
Sometimes a good designer of clothes doesn't match with scents that should never be lost.(I'm a designer ..how paradoxal!)Thanks again for your historical, publicitary and technical research.¿Have you considered writing a Perfume Memories book? Ana.
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